Italy Leg 3: Trains, Laundry, and Cinque Terre Magic

After beginning our Italian adventure in Cava di’Tirini and soaking up the nonstop energy of Rome, Leg 3 was where things slowed down, in the very best way. This part of the trip was all about colorful seaside villages, salty air, very good food, and the occasional reminder that we should probably double-check the calendar.

Day 6: Rome to Monterosso (a Very Long Train Day)

We kicked things off early with breakfast around 7 a.m., then started the journey at 8:00 sharp for what can only be described as a full commitment to train travel. From Murtella to Roma Trastevere, Trastevere to Roma Termini, then a four-hour stretch past Pisa into Cinque Terre, followed by one last short hop into Monterosso before a 30 minute walk to our hotel in Old Town.

By the time we reached Monterosso Old Town, we were tired, proud, and extremely aware of our knees. Travel tip we learned the hard way: if your train seats face each other, sit across, not side by side. Four hours knee-to-knee while strangers build a luggage fort at your feet is…not ideal.

Once settled, we immediately showered (priorities) and hauled all our clothes to the laundromat, because nothing says “European vacation” like doing laundry in a foreign country. We rewarded ourselves properly with Italian garlic bread and bruschetta, followed later by an amazing pasta dinner at Pastarita. It may have looked like a little hole in the wall, but ended up having the best Carbonara of the trip. Dave has since taught himself to replicate this dish ,and it’s always a huge hit. Bonus surprise: most restaurants in Old Town are shockingly reasonable, which made everything taste even better.

Walking back to the hotel just after sunset, with the town lights flickering on, felt like one of those moments you wish you could bottle.

Steps: 13,000 (earned and felt)

Where We Stayed

We stayed at Albergo Al Carugio in Old Town. Our accommodations were quaint, charming, and very Old Town Cinque Terre. Tiny but totally workable, close to everything, and, miracle of miracles, it had a fridge with a freezer. The only freezer we encountered the entire trip, which felt like winning a small lottery.

Day 7: Slow Mornings, Decaf Dreams & Beach Time

The day started perfectly with croissants and cappuccinos; decaf cappuccinos, no less. Truly delighted. Italy understands me.

After picking up laundry and hanging a few things on the balcony, we walked over to New Monterosso (Fegina), which reminded us a bit of Māori. Lovely, but after a quick stroll, we decided Old Town was more our vibe.

The rest of the day was exactly what we needed, sitting on a bench people-watching, reading, then claiming a little free patch of beach. When it got too hot, we simply wandered into the sea like people who absolutely had no schedule and nowhere else to be, because we didn’t.

Food highlights included Caprese and a drink at a local spot, pizza at Focacceria il Frantoio, and an unforgettable dinner featuring a seafood platter followed by hot chocolate cake at Ristorante Ciak. I will think about that cake for a long time.

Steps: 10,665 (a “rest day,” Italian-style)

Day 8: Exploring Cinque Terre

This was our ambitious day, Riomaggiore, Manarola, and Vernazza, all by train. Each village had its own personality, but Vernazza was packed. Beautiful, yes. Peaceful? Not even a little.

By late afternoon, we were happy to return to Old Town Monterosso, where we revisited Focacceria il Frantoio for dinner and picked up ice cream and Oreos for later. Back in the room, we realized we had no spoon, so we used Oreos to scoop the ice cream. Plus we had a freezer. Honestly? Highly recommend.

Steps: 11,893

Day 9: A Slight Scheduling Oops

We woke up planning a relaxed final day…only to realize we were a full day off and needed to pack and catch a train that afternoon. Whoops.

So we pivoted gracefully (or at least quickly), did a little shopping, wandering, and one last long lunch before boarding our late afternoon train to Milan.

Steps: 11,644

Leg 3 was exactly what we didn’t know we needed, slower mornings, seaside views, simple joys, and just enough chaos to keep things interesting. Cinque Terre has a way of making even laundry days feel magical…especially when they involve decaf cappuccinos and sunset walks home. We loved Old Town Monterrosso so much that I had to throw in a few more pictures.